"Sentiero Sosat" and "Via delle Bocchette Centrali" via ferrata paths (July 25th, 1999)

Rif. Tuckett/Sella (2270m) -> Rif. Alimonta (2580m) -> Rif. Pedrotti (2491m) -> Molveno (840m)

"Sentiero Sosat /The Sosat Path": from Rif. Tuckett/Sella to Rif. Alimonta, path number 305B, about 3.5 hrs, (1-8). This path enables climbers to go around Cima Brenta massif on the west side, avoiding the much more difficult "Bocchette Alto". The path, very exposed in some stretches, traverses the ledges on the flank of the Cima Mandron at an altitude of 2600m. The initial stage of the path climbs over easy rocks, sometimes with ropes. In about one hour, the majestic rock-walls of Cima Tosa (3173m) and Crozzon di Brenta (3135m) will be insight (1). Shortly after that, you need to descend a deep gorge (2,3), from which you reascend by way of a 51-rung iron ladder (4), thus reaching the ledges which cuts through the West and South side of the Punte di Campiglio. The following part is relatively easy (5,6,7) with excellent views of Val Brenta (Pic. 6: Rif. Maria e Aiberto al Brentei -2176m, under your foot), occasinally up and down with short ladders and ropes and finally you reach Rif. Alimonta (8).

The gigantic rock pillar of the Crozzon (1,6) which is detached from the Cima Tosa to the north by a deep, ice-bound ravine (the Vedretta del Crozzon) and dominates the whole of the Val Brenta, is one of the most characteristic mountain structure of the Group. Each of its sides presents taxing but elegant rock-climbs, such as the famous North ridge which soars up precipitously for over 900 metres.


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"Bocchette Centrali", the most famous path in Brenta Dolomites, from Rif. Alimonta / Bocca del Armi to Bocca di Brenta / Rif. Pedrotti, path number 305, about 4 hrs, (9-32). It is very well-equipped and for the most part takes places at an average altitude of 2700m. From Rif. Alimonta to Bocca (mouth) del Armi, you walk over the permanent snow of Vedretta Sett. Degli Sfulmeni (9-10). At Bocca del Armi (2749m) where the path starts, you first climb over a series of five steep ladders (11) after which you are moving on winding ledge which cuts horizontally along the eastern flank of the Torre di Brenta (12,13). After some time the top of the famous Companile (pinnacle) Basso (2883m) is insight (14,15). The path continues along the narrow ledges of Campanile Alto (16-19; this part is called the Arturo Castrlli Path), with excellent views (however before looking around make sure you are at safe position!). At certain point, you can have a close look at the top of Campanile Basso (20) and on its cliff there are several groups of climbers climbing on that day (the first successful climbing to its top was made by two Austrian students, Otto Ampferer and Karl Berger on 18 July, 1899). The following is a long descent over rock and you reach the Bocca Campanile Basso where the Campanile Basso connects with Cima Brenta Alta (Pic. 21: the view of Val brenta at the Bocca). At here I thought the path should be finished, however it turns out the path continues along a long horizontal ledge which is very exposed and skirts the whole face of the Brenta Alta (22-28). This part of the path offers excellent views of Campanile Basso which appears like a gigantic pillar or tower with sheer rock-walls and a clearly rectangular shape (23-25). The path continues along the southern wall of Cima Brenta Alta (26-28), with Val Brenta just below your foot. At certain positions near Bocca di Brenta you make a descent with a short ladder (29, the last ladder along the path!) and down to the snow of Vedretta Bocca di Brenta (seen in Pic. 28) after which you finally reach Bocca di Brenta (30). Climbing over the Bocca, the Rif. Pedrotti (31) is insight.

From Rif. Pedrotti to Molveno is a long descent (about 3 hrs).

Pic 32: looking back of Cima Brenta Alta and Campanile Basso along the descent path (path number 319) to Molveno.


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Copyright by Lu Wenyun